Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.3)

March, 1835. portillo pass. 383 assisted me in every possible way, in making the little pre- parations which were necessary. In this immediate part of Chile there are two passes across the Andes to Mendoza, and the plains on the opposite side. The one most com- monly used, namely, that of Aconcagua, or Uspallata, is situated some way to the northward of the capital : the other, called the Portillo, is to the southward, and less distant. The latter is, however, rather more lofty, and from the double chain, more dangerous during a snow-storm. For these reasons it is but little used, especially late in the season. March 18th. — We set out for the Portillo pass. Leaving Santiago we crossed the wide burnt-up plain on which that city stands, and in the afternoon arrived at the Maypo, one of the principal rivers in Chile. The valley, at the point where it enters the first Cordillera, is bounded on each side by lofty barren mountains; and although not broad, it is very fertile. Numerous cottages were surrounded by vines, and by orchards of apple, nectarine, and peach trees ; the boughs of the latter breaking with the weight of the beautiful ripe fruit. In the evening we passed the custom-house, where our luggage was examined. The frontier of Chile is better guarded by the Cordillera, than by the waters of the sea. There are very few valleys which lead to the central ranges, and, ex- cept by these, the mountains are far too steep and lofty for any beast of burden to pass over them. The custom- house officers were very civil; which was perhaps partly owing to the passport which the President of the republic had given me; but I must also express my admiration at the natural politeness of almost every Chileno. In this instance the contrast with the same class of men in most other countries was strongly marked. I may mention an anecdote with which I was much pleased at the time. We met near Mendoza a httle and very fat negress, riding astride on a mule. She had a goitre so enormous, that it was scarcely possible to avoid gazing at her for a moment ; but my two companions almost instantly, by way of apology,