Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.3)

382 CHAPTER XVII. Valparaiso — Passage of Andes by Portillo pass — Sagacity of mules Mountain torrents — Mines, how discovered — Marine alluvium in val- leys — Effect of snow on surface — Geology, fossil shells, double range, two periods of elevation — Red snow — Winds on the crest — Snow thaw- ing in pinnacles — Dry and clear atmosphere — Electricity — Pampas Zoology of opposite sides of Andes — Uniformity of Patagonia — Locusts — Great bugs — Mendoza — Uspallata — Silicified trees in vertical posi- tion — Indian ruins — Change of climate — Earthquake arching bed of river — Cumbre — Valparaiso. PASSAGE OF CORDILLERA. March 7th, 1835. — We staid only three days at Con- cepcion, and then sailed for Valparaiso. The wind being northerly, we only reached the mouth of the harbour of Con- cepciou before it was dark. Being very near the land, and a fog coming on, the anchor was dropped. Presently a large American whaler appeared close alongside of us ; and we heard the Yankee swearing at his men, to make them keep quiet, whilst he listened where the breakers were. Captain FitzRoy hailed him in a loud clear voice, to anchor where he then was. The poor man must have thought the voice came from the shore : such a Babel of cries issued at once from the ship — every one hallooing out, " Let go the anchor ! veer cable ! shorten sail \" It was the most laugh- able thing I ever heard. If the ship's crew had been all captains, and no men, there covdd not have been a greater uproar of orders. We afterwards found that the mate stuttered. I suppose aU hands were assisting him in giving his orders. On the 11th we anchored at Valparaiso; and two days afterwards I set out on an excursion to cross the Cordillera. I proceeded to Santiago, where Mr. Caldcleugh most kindly