Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.3)

346 CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO. Jan. 1835. of seals which we saw was quite astonishing ; every bit of flat rock, and parts of the beach, were covered with them. They appeared to be of a loving disposition, and lay huddled together, fast asleep, hke so many pigs ; but even pigs would be ashamed of their dirt, and of the foul smell which came from them. Each herd was watched by the patient but inauspicious eyes of the turkey-buzzard. This disgust- ing bird, with its bald scarlet head, formed to waUow in putridity, is very common on the west coast, and their attendance on the seals shows that they are dependant on their mortahty. We found the water (probably only that of the surface) nearly fresh ; this was caused by the number of torrents, which, in the form of cascades, came tumbUng over the bold granite mountains into the sea. The fresh water attracts the fish, and these bring many terns, gulls, and two kinds of cormorant. We saw also a pair of the beautiful black-necked swans, and several small sea-otters, the fur of which is held in such high estimation. In returning we were agam amused by the impetuous manner in which the heap of seals, old and young, tumbled into the water as the boat passed. They did not remain long under, but rising, followed us with outstretched necks, expressing great wonder and curiosity. 7th. — Having run up the coast, we anchored near the northern end of the Chonos Archipelago, in Lowe's Harbour, where we remained a week. The islands were here, as in Chiloe, composed of a stratified littoral deposit of soft sandstone with shingle ; and the vegetation in consequence was beautifully luxuriant. The woods came down to the sea-beach, just in the same manner as an evergreen shrub- bery over a gravel walk. We also enjoyed from the anchorage a splendid view of four great snowy cones of the Cordillera, beginning with the saddle-topped volcano, next " el famoso Corcovado," and then two others to the southward. The range itself had in this latitude so Uttle elevation, that few parts of it appeared above the line of the neighbouring islets. We found here a party of five men