Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.3)

Dec. 1834. tres montes. 343 We staid here three days. The weather continued bad but this did not much signify, for the surface of the land in all these islands is all but impassable. The coast is so very rugged, that to attempt to walk in that direction requires continued scrambling up and down, over the sharp rocks of mica slate ; and as for the woods — our faces, hands, and shin- bones all bore witness to the maltreatment we received in merely attempting to penetrate their forbidden recesses. December 18th. — We stood out to sea. On the 20th we bade farewell to the south, and with a fair wind turned the ship's head northward. From Cape Tres Montes we sailed pleasantly along the lofty weather-beaten coast ; which is remarkable for the bold outline of its hills, and the thick covering of forest — even on the almost precipitous flanks. The next day a harbour was discovered, which on this dan- gerous coast might be of great utility to a distressed vessel. It can easUy be recognised by a hill 1600 feet high, which is even more perfectly conical than the famous sugar-loaf at Rio de Janeiro. The next day, after anchoring, I succeeded in reaching the summit of this hill. It was a laborious under- taking, for the sides were so steep, that in some parts it was necessary to use the trees as ladders : there were also several extensive brakes of the Fuchsia covered with its beautiful drooping flowers, but very difficult to crawl through. In these wild countries it gives much delight, to gain the summit of any mountain. There is an indefinite expectation of meeting something very strange, which, however often it may be balked, never failed with me to recur on each successive attempt. Every one must know the feeling of triumph and pride which a grand viev/ from a height communicates to the mind. In these little frequented countries there is also joined to it some vanity, that you perhaps are the first man who ever stood on this pinnacle or admired this view. A strong desire is always felt to ascertain, whether any body has previously visited the place. A bit of wood with a nail in it is picked up and studied, as if it were covered with hieroglyphics. Possessed with this feeling, I was much in-