Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

CHAPTER XXVI. Nortli Cape of New Zealand — Superstitions — Cook's great Lizard- Traditions — Currents — Thermometer — Sydney — Dr. Darwin — Drought — Aqueduct — Position — Disadvantages — Ill-acquired wealth of Convicts, or Emancipists — Hobart Town — Advantages of Van Diemen's Land — King George Sound — Natives — Dance — Keeling Islands — Tides — Soundings — Coral formations — Malays — Fish Weather — ]\Iauritiiis — Cape of Good Hope — St. Helena — Ascension — Bahia — Pernambuco — Cape Verde Islands — Azores — Arrive in England. On the last day of this year (1835) we passed the north cape of New Zealand, and steered for Port Jackson. It has been said that the New Zealanders entertain vague ideas about the spirits of their dead hovering near this north cape. I had no opportunity of inquiring into this superstition, but as other authorities besides Cook mention it, no doubt there is some such belief among those who have not acquired different notions from foreigners To my mind it is interesting in two points of view ; one, as showing their belief in a future state of existence ; and the other, as indicating tlie quarter whence New Zealand was first peopled ; for it appears to be an impres- sion common to many savage nations, that their souls should go to the land of their ancestors. This is particularly remarkable among the South American aborigines. It is not easy to ima- gine any motive for the New Zealanders supposing that spirits hover about the North Cape, in preference to any other pro- montory of New Zealand, unless in connexion with the idea that from the point nearest to the country whence those people formerly migrated, the souls of the deceased would, after a time perhaps, depart to their permanent abode. In taking leave of this interesting country I will refer to Cook once more, for a curious notice, given in his third voy- age, respecting great lizards in New Zealand, which have not, so far as I am aware, been lately described, or even met with. ' Taweiharooa' gave an account of snakes and lizards of an enor- mous size ; " he describes the latter as being eight feet in length,