Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

46 EIGHT STONES MADEIUA. Jan. On the 3d of January we were occupied in looking for the " Eiffht Stones ;"' but nothing was seen to indicate either rocks, or shoals, or even shallow water. The sun was shining brightly on a deep blue sea, of one uniform colour : no sound- ings could be obtained ; and had there been a shoal or rock within seven miles of us at any hour of that day, it could not have been passed unnoticed. So many vessels have searched, in vain, for this alleged group of rocks, that their existence can now hardly be thought possible. At day-light, on the 4th, the rocky high islet of Porto Santo was seen looming through haze and clouds which hung around it. We steered between Porto Santo and the Desertas, intendine: to anchor in Funchal Roads .• but the wind drew round to south-west, with such strong squalls, that I abandoned my intention, and at once steered for TenerifFe. The roadstead I have just mentioned is well known to be unsafe in south- west gales ; and there can be no doubt that the most prudent plan is to keep at sea while they last : but I have been told by old traders to Madeira, that ships sometimes remain at anchor, about half a mile from the Loo rock, and ride out south-west gales without difficulty : the ' under-tow' being so considerable that their cables are little strained. In fine weather, and it is fine at Madeira nine months in the year, the view of this steep and lofty island,* covered with bright verdure, and enlivened by numerous scattered houses, as white as snow, is very striking to a stranger who arrives from the low, and tame-looking shores of the south coast of England. Seamen are often deceived, when about to anchor in Funchal Roads, in consequence of the sudden transition which they have probably made from a low shelving coast to an abrupt and high mountain-side : for the bottom of the anchorage slopes away as suddenly as the heights overlooking it, and the anchor must indeed be let go upon the side of a mountain. Hence ships seldom go close enough, unless guided by a person who knows the place ; and many a chain cable ran out to the clinch, when chains were first used, owing to an incorrect estimate of * About five tliousand feet high.