Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

1835. APTERYX — WAIMATE GARDENS. 601 intersected is tlie land by arms of the sea. Fresh water, in rivers, brooks, and springs, is plentiful, and never fails. There is a rare and curious bird in New Zealand, which few persons have seen. It is shy, and seldom visible in the day- time : the natives are said to chase it by moonlight. It is of the bustard or emu kind, unable to fly, though provided with short wings ; it is said to be more hairy than feathery, and about the size of a small emu.* On rather a high plain, or very flat-topped hill, stands Waimate — the agricultural establishment of the Church Mis- sionary Society. After so long an absence from every simi- lar sight, and in New Zealand, the sudden appearance of three English houses, surrounded by outhouses, gardens, and cultivated fields, was striking and delightful ; I looked at it as a fragment of Old England, small indeed, but apparently genuine. About twenty acres of land, judging only by eye, seemed to be cultivated. Corn was in full ear, and looked well. The buildings showed at a distance to greater advantage than on a nearer approach ; because they are built in the form of gentlemen's cottages, but entirely of wood, and were then un- finished. There were also nice gardens, which had evidently profited by much industrious care, and knowledge of gardening: my hasty survey was however stopped by the approach of a person, whose appearance and manner showed that he was an essential actor in this English scene; and whose intelligent, kind, and truly respectable demeanor was of that description which at once excites esteem and goodwill. This was Mr. Davis, the superintendant of the farming establishment. He told me that Mr. Wm. Williams (the brother of Henry Williams) and Mr. Clarke, were gone toHokianga, at the opposite side of the island, to attend the last hours of a young Wesleyan missionary. I have hitherto spoken of missionaries in general terms, as if they formed a distinct and undivided class. That as a body they ai-e distinct, in the scale of worldly divisions, is true ; their self-devotion, their habits of life, peculiar education, and inces- * This bird (Aptcryx Australis) has lately bi'en described by naturalists, therefore 1 say no more about it.