Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

1835. FLAX MKKTIXG — CHIEFS. 583 mingled, and formed a rapidly varying view as we pro» ceeded. Mr. Baker had been urged by the natives of Cawa-cawa to visit them, and endeavour to settle a dispute which had arisen with a neighbouring village, or rather tribe. He also wished to gain more advocates for the abolition of spirits ; and I was glad to profit by the opportunity of seeing a little of the natives and their habits, in a place said to be Christianized, and uncontaminated by the spirit- sellers. A few of our own countrymen were employing themselves as sawyers, on the banks of the river, near the village of Cawa- cawa ; but neither their huts, their mode of living, nor their outward appearance, caused any feeling of good-will towards them on my part. Having ascended the stream, as far as the boat could go, which was about four miles from the salt-water, we landed, and walked towards the village of Cawa-cawa, escorted by several elderly and a mob of young natives. Our way led through open underwood, maize-grounds, and damp swampy soil, in which I saw plenty of the plant called ' flax,' supposed, a few years since, to be very valuable, and noAv probably much undervalued. Across a stream the natives seemed delighted to carry us ; indeed, I may say once for all, that at this village their whole behaviour was affable, friendly, and open, to a degree nearly approaching that of the merry Otaheitans. Under the shade of a large tree, the inhabitants of the widely- scattered huts soon assembled. For me they brought a chair out of a cottage ; but for themselves their native soil offered a sufficient place of rest. In all positions, half-enveloped in blankets or coarse country mattings, with their rough, curly hair protecting their heads from the sun's rays, and almost shading their tattowed faces, about a hundred men, women, and children surrounded their apparently most welcome friend ' Payka,' as they called Mr. Baker. Many fine forms and most expressive countenances were there. Such heads, indeed I may say, such a group for a painter ! I had sufficient leisure to admire them ; for it is etiquette in New Zealand to sit in silence