Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

1835. WILLIAMS — CHURCH. 575 rich : where it is small, and scarce, the land is not worth culti- vating.* Mr. Williams, the elder, formerly a lieutenant in the navy, was absent on an exploring and negociating expedition to the southern parts of the island. I much regretted having missed seeing him, as he was considered the leading person among the missionary body in New Zealand ; and was said, by every one, to be thoroughly devoted to the great cause, in which he was one of the first, and most daring. I walked with Mr. Baker about the little village, or hamlet, of Paihia. A sub- stantial stone buildins; I thought must be the church ; but was a good deal disappointed at being shown a small low edifice, as the place of worship ; and hearing that the large stone house was the printing establishment. This I did not like ; for I thought of the effect produced on ignorant minds by the magnificence of Roman Catholic churches. No doubt education overcomes superstitious ideas and observances ; and the devotion of an enlightened man is not increased or dimi^ nished by the style, or by the decorations of a building : in him probably no building made by hands would excite such emotions as the starry temple of a cloudless sky. But ought he, therefore, to despise, or think lightly of those outward forms, and ceremonious observances, which influence ignorant people, who see without thinking ; and are too much guided by that which makes a vivid impression. Would a little out- ward show do any harm among such ignorant human beings as the savages of New Zealand ; or among Fuegians, and New Hollanders.? And may one not expect that an intelligent native should notice that the ' House of God ' is in every respect inferior to the other houses which they see erected by Christians ? Paihia is a pretty spot. The harbour of Kororareka lies in front ; and an amphitheatre of verdant hills forms the back ground. But it must be hot during the summer, as it is in a hollow, facing the sun. A visit to Mr. J. Busby, the ' British • Humboldt mentions fern-roots being used for food near the Ori-