Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

1835. . MISTAKE — PAIHIA — NATIVES. 567 native chiefs came on board during the afternoon ; and in the evening I made acquaintance with Mr. Baker, a missionary residing at Paihia. The resident's boat was manned by young Zealanders, whose smooth faces, cropped hair, Scotch caps, and jackets and trowsers, were much approved of (perhaps hypo- critically), by a chief whose long war-canoe was well-manned by athletic savages with half-naked figures, faces deeply-scarred — rather than tattowed — and long curly hair. We were amused by finding that the Beagle had been mistaken for a ship of the (so called) Baron de Thierry. Her small size; the number of boats; and her hoisting a white ensign (thought to be that of New Zealand), so completely deceived them all, that one boat only approached reluctantly, after we had anchored, to reconnoitre ; but as soon as it was known that the expected intruder had not arrived, visitors hastened on board. Had he made such an experiment, he would hardly have escaped \\ith life, so inveterate and general was the feeling then existing against his sinister and absurd attempt. He would indeed have found himself in a nest of hornets. In walking about the missionary establishment at Paihia, I was disappointed by seeing the natives so dirty, and their huts looking little better than pigstyes. Immediately round the dwellings of the missionaries I expected a better state of things ; but I was told, that their numerous and increasino; avocations engrossed all their time ; and that the native population were slow in adopting habits, or even ideas, of cleanliness. My first impression, upon seeing several New Zealanders in their native dress and dirtiness was, that they were a race inter- mediate between the Otaheitans and Fuegians; and I after- wards found that Mr. Stokes and others saw many precise resemblances to the Fuegians, while every one admitted their likeness to the Otaheitans. To me they all seem to be one and the same race of men, altered by climate, habits, and food ; but descended from the same original stock. Of a middle size, spare, but strong frame, and dark com- plexion, the New Zealauder's outward appearance is much in his favour ; hardiness and activity, as may be expected, he