Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

542 GOOD FEELING PILOTAGE. NoV. I ever witnessed. To me it was a beautiful miniature view of a nation emerging from heathen ignorance, and modestly set- ting forth their claims to be considered civilized and Christian. We afterwards dined with Mr. Pritchard, his family, and the two chiefs, Utaanie and Taati. The behaviour of these worthies was extremely good ; and it was very gratifying to hear so much said in their favour by those whose long residence on the island had enabled them to form a correct judgment. What we heard and saw showed us that mutual feelino-s of esteem existed between those respectable and influential old chieftains and the missionary families. It was quite dark when we left Papiete to return, by many miles among coral reefs, to the Beagle ; but our cat-eyed pilot undertook, to guide our three boats safely through intricate passages among the reefs, between which I could hardly find my way in broad daylight, even after having passed them several times. The distance to the ship was about four miles ; and the night so dark, that the boats were obliged almost to touch each other to ensure safety ; yet they arrived on board unhurt, con- trary to my expectation ; for my eyes could not detect any reason for altering our course every few minutes, neither could those of any other person, except the pilot, James Mitchell. Had he made a mistake of even a few yards, among so many intricate windings, our boats must have suffered (because the coral rocks are very sharp and soon split a plank), thougli in such smooth and shallow water, a wrong turning could have caused inconvenience only to ourselves, for there was little or no danger of more than a wetting. The observations at Matavai being completed, I was enabled to leave the place, and invited Hitote and Mr. Henry (who had returned with us) to pay another visit to Papiete in the Beagle, and meet the I'oyal party. 25th. At dayliglit this morning, while the Beagle''s crew were unmooring and hoisting in the boats, I went to Mr. Wilson''s school-house, then used also as a chapel — the old chapel having been blown down by a violent gale of wind. Divine service (a hymn, a long extempore prayer, and another hymn) was