Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

SIO TRAFFIC — DRESS — MATAVAI. NoV. assembled, each containing from two to ten persons. A few, in- deed, were so small that they could only hold one man each. The outriggers hindered their approach, as much as hoops impeded the motions of our maternal ancestors ; but those who could not get near looked equally happy at a distance. All were cheerful, tractable, and patient, though eager to see the ' manua' (their corruption of man-of-war), and dispose of their merchandize (shells and fruit) to the new-comers. The work necessary for securing the ship being completed, permission was given to admit the natives ; and on board they swarmed like bees. In a minute, our deck became a crowded and noisy bazaar. ' One dala' (dollar), and ' my ty ' ('maitai,' meaning ' good, fine, agreed,' &c.) sounded in all tones, except those of women, none of whom appeared afloat. The current price of every article was ' one dala' : a pig, a shell, a whole basket of shells, a roll of cloth, a heap of fru t, or a single fish- hook, of the worst description, were offered as equivalents for the coveted dollar. Old clothes, if of cloth, they would not take, unless as a gift ; but linen was acceptable. Every man had a light linen or cotton garment, or the remains of one, of some kind ; the more respectable wore shirts, and loose wrap- pers for trowsers ; a few had jackets and trowsers. Many had straw hats ; some had a wreath of leaves, some flowers in their hair : only a few of the youngest boys were nearly naked. Mr. Darwin and I went to Point Venus, and landed among a mob of inquisitive, laughing, and chattering natives, most of whom were women and children. Mr. Wilson, the respected missionary, so long resident at Matavai, met us on the beach ; and with him we went, attended by the younger part of the mob, to his house. Ten minutes' walk along level land, every where, except at the sea-side, covered or shaded by thick under- wood, tall palms, and the rich foliage of the bread-fruit tree, brought us to the quiet dwelling. The free, cheerful manners of the natives who gathered about the door, and unceremo- niously took possession of vacant seats, on chairs, or the floor, showed that they were at home with their benefactors ; and that any seclusion or offensive intimation of superiority had