Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

CHAPTER XXir. Dangerous Archipelago of the Low Islands — Krusenstern — Squalls Discoveries — Otaheite — Matavai — Natives — Houses — Point Venus Theft — Singing — Pomare — Sugar — Papiete— Church — INIr. Pritchard — Thierry — Shells — Mr. Nott — Bible — Paamuto Natives — Falkner ' Ua' — Papawa — Relics — Divine Service — Hitote — Henry — Audience — Queen — Missionaries — Roman Catholics — Forming head — Meeting at Papiete — Dress — Behaviour — Eloquence of natives — Honourahle feelings — Interesting discussion — Venilia. After sailing before the wind twelve days, our approach to land was indicated by a black tern which flew past the ship.* Tropic birds were seen on the previous day (2d), but they roam farther than tern. On the 9th we saw Honden Island, one of the low coral formations, only a few feet above water, yet thickly covered with cocoa-nut trees.t Our observations corro- borated the position assigned to it by Admiral Krusenstern,;]: in his excellent chart and memoir, the only documents of any use to us while traversing the archipelago of the Low Islands. This archipelago is indeed extremely deserving of its appel- lation, ' Dangerous;' for numerous coral islets, all low, and some extensive, obstruct the navigation, while unknown currents and strong squalls, and a total want of soundings, add to the risk of sailing there at night. Singular interruptions to the trade-wind are caused by these low lagoon § islands ; not only does the eas- terly wind often fail among them, but heavy squalls come from the opposite direction, and more frequently by night than by day. This is especially the case from November to March. I have before remarked (pp. (J5, 66), that extensive shallows, such as the Abrolhos and Bermudas, are liable to heavy squalls; • 3d November, lat. 1 1°.45'S., long. 126° W. . t About 110 feet from the water level to the top of the trees. I Admiral Krusenstern had the kindness to send me a copy of his Atlas of the Pacific Ocean, accompanied by an elaborate memoir. § Most of them are little better than dry reefs encircling a shallow lake or lagoon.