Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

CHAPTER XX. Challenger sails — Sounds off Mocha — Wrecked on the main-land — Crew saved — Stores landed — Camp formed — Great exertions and excellent conduct — Mr. Consul Rouse — LeUbu— Plague of mice— Curious rats Return to Blonde — Ulpu — Araucanian dress — Arauco — ' Boroanos' Tubul — Bar rivers — Apples — Ferry — Blonde sails — Seek for the Leubu— Schooner Carmen— Errors and delay — Embark Challenger's crew — Rescue the Carmen — Talcahuano — New Concepcion — Valpa- raiso — Coquimbo— Challenger's sail in Conway — Reflections. The Challenger sailed from Rio de Janeiro on the 3d of April 1835 : she had much bad weather off Cape Horn, which lengthened her passage considerably. On the 18th and 19th of May, strong north-west winds, with thick weather and heavy rain, prevented observations being taken ; except a few for time only. The ship was approaching the land, and her position estimated by dead reckoning from the last observations. At five P.M. on the 19th, the Challenger hove-to, bent cables, unstowed the anchors, and soimded, but no bottom was found with two hundred and ten fathoms of line. This sound- ing was taken as a matter of form rather than utility, for no one supposed that the ship could be less than fifty miles from a steep coast, oif which soundings extend a very little way. At this time, she was really about twelve miles from Mocha, which bore from S.E. to S. The weather was clear overhead, but too hazy near the horizon to see land, or any object distant more than four or five miles. Mocha is high, bold land, which in clear weather may be seen at thirty, forty, or even fifty miles distance ; but soundings are no guide in its neighbourhood. They are irregular, and indeed not to be got, except very near the land. A course was shaped for passing Santa Maria, and approach- ing the entrance of Concepcion Bay ; and with a strong wind from W.N.W., the ship ran eight or nine knots an hour, under treble-reefed topsails, courses, and jib, steering N.b.E. until VOL. II. 2 G 2