Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

1835. GRANARY — BAD TRAVELLING. 445 much they may plague others. Sometimes there is a sort of bed- stead, and a shght partition for the older people ; but the others take their rest upon the raised part of the floor, wrapped in sheep- skins, or goat-skins, and rough woollen clothes. A large heap of potatoes occupies one corner of the hut, and another is filled by a granary, curiously contrived with stakes about six feet in length, driven into the ground in a circle of perhaps six feet diameter. Rough wicker-work unites the stakes, and forms a bottom about half a foot from the ground. Straw is then inserted into the wattled-work, until there is enough to prevent any com from falling thi'ough. This large fixed basket is filled at harvest time, and supplies the family during the whole year : neither rat or mouse can get at it without making a rustling noise, which instantly alarms each cat and dog. Before our host returned with horses it Avas evening. He would have detained us until the next morning, could his arguments have availed, but finding that with or without liim, on we were resolved to go, he set out at a good pace towards Leiibu. Less rain and wind encouraged hopes of a fine night, so we trotted or galloped along while day-light lasted, but as the night grew dark rain again poured down : and, obliged then to go slowly, we followed one another as close as pos- sible, placing the guide in front with a white poncho. While in the open country we got on pretty well, but, after two hours easy work, we found that the track was taking us through thick woods. My first intimation of the change was being nearly knocked off my horse by the bough of a tree, so pitchy dark was the night ; and after this I kept my head on the horse's neck, trusting to his eyes entirely, for I could see nothing. That our guide could find the way has been matter of astonishment to me ever since : he never failed once. Some of the defiles through which he led were knee- deep in clayey mud, so stiiF that the horses could hardly move. Often we were set fast in such places, obliged to get off, and feel for the track, — knee-deep, and up to our elbows in mud, — for it was upon hands and knees that we went, oftener than upon our legs. Our guide knew we were in the