Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

1835. NATIVK GUIDE INDIANS. 443 quality. We passed over no hills of any consequence as to height, though generally we were ascending or descending. An in-shore circuit was taken, to avoid crossing three rivers, which, near the sea, are difficult to pass ; and having lost our way (notwithstanding the alleged excellence of our guide), a native, almost Indian, was easily prevailed upon to run by the side of our horses until he put us into the right track. Before running through the bushes, he carefully tucked up his loose trousers as high as possible ; thinking, I suppose, that his skin was less likely to be torn than the trousers ; and thus bare-footed and bare-legged he ran before us for several miles with the greatest ease. At the cottage from which he came, a very good horse, in excellent condition, and well cleaned, was standing in a yard. I asked the owner to let me hire or buy him, but he would consent to neither ; alleging that, in the Indian country, his life depended upon having a good horse close at hand. Three thousand Indians had assembled, he told me, and were ex- pected to make an attack upon the Chilian frontier ; but on what particular part was quite uncertain. They had heard of the wreck, and wei*e actually going to the place to plunder the crew, when accidentally met and driven back by Colipi, with his friendly tribe. Dogs seem to be kept at these cottages for the same purpose as those at the ' ranchos,' in the Pampas, namely, to give warning of the approach of enemies. Small parties of Indians seldom or ever attack a house without reconnoitring carefully ; and this they cannot effect if there are many dogs about. After our running guide had left us, though put into the right track, we were soon at a loss again ; so numerous were the tracks of horses and cattle in this rich pasture land. The professed guide whom we had brought from Arauco, was more viseful in recovering half-tired horses, than from knowing the way : no sooner did he get upon a horse, which one of my party could not persuade to go out of a walk, than he started off^ at full gallop, exulting in his skill. Perhaps his secret lay in a sharp pair of iron spurs : for the thick skin and coarse