Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

426 PAPUDO — PICHIDANaUE — COKCHALl. April, May. from a populous small place called Puchancavi. From this station we sailed to Papudo, a small port rising into repute, on account of copper-mines in its neighbourhood. It is well marked by a high-peaked hill, called Gobernador. Next to Papudo lies Ligua, a place where boats only can go ; farther north, or ' down the coast"' (as they say in Chile and Peru), is Pichidanque, an excellent cove, rather than port, now much used for shipping copper, and formerly a smuggling place rendered more notorious by the murder of Burcher, the master of an English smuggling vessel called the Scorpion, who was enticed ashore and assassinated, after which his ship was seized and plundered. This took place in the present century; and an individual, who was said to have taken an active part in the tragedy, was living at Quillota, in 1885. Close to Pichidanque is a high pointed hill, called ' Silla"* (from its saddle shape), seeing which distinctly from Valpa- raiso, is said to be a sign of an approaching northerly wind. I landed at Conchali after dark on the 30th, leaving the Beagle under sail in the offing. My reception was very hos- pitable ; but the people made sure I was a smuggler ; and some of the principal inhabitants rode with me several miles next morning to the place where my boat was hauled ashore, thinking all the time that I was only waiting for a favourable opportunity to tell them my secret, and make advantageous terms. All this coast, except a few corners, is bold and high, barren and uninteresting ; though picturesque in outline. May 2d. Another smuggHng cove, called Quilimari, was examined by me. There is but doubtful landing, and no shel- ter for a vessel ; balsas, however, might do a good deal of work for such a character as I was taken for at Conchali. On the 4th, having hastily reconnoitred the coast nearly as far as Coquimbo, we ran into Herradura Cove, and moored ship securely. It was my intention to refit there thoroughly, and prepare the Beagle for receiving a large supply of stores and provisions at Valparaiso, which would enable her to run down the coast to the Galapagos, and thence cross the Pacific to Sydney in Australia. In Herradura she lay quietly close