Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

CHAPTER XIX. Mocha — Movement of Land — Penco — Ulloa — Shells — Coal — Maule Topocalma — Aconcagua — Valparaiso — Horcon — Papudo — Pichi- danque — Conchali — Herradura — Coquimbo — Wreck — Challenger Blonde — Ride — Estate — Colcura — Villagran — Arauco — Former caciques — Colocolo — Caupolican — Scenery — Quiapo — Night travel- ling— Leiibu — Tucapel — Valdivia — Lautaro — Challenger; When the Beagle entered Concepcion Bay, she had only one heavy anchor left, having broken or lost the others ; and as there were none fit for her at Talcahuano, it became abso- lutely necessary to go to Valparaiso : accordingly, on the 7th of March we left the melancholy ruins and their disconsolate tenants, and on the 11th dropped our only anchor at Valpa- raiso. There our wants were soon supplied, and we sailed on the ITth to revisit Concepcion. From the 27th the time was occupied in surveying the neigh- bourhood of Concepcion, Arauco Bay, the island of Santa Maria, and Mocha, until the 17th of April. Mocha is a prominent land-mark for navigators, but dan- gerous rocks lie about its south-west quarter, and as the cur- rent usually sets northward, a ship ought to beware of them. Previous to the eighteenth century it was inhabited by Arau- canian Indians, but they were driven away by the Spaniards and since that time a few stray animals have been the only permanent tenants. Most of the early voyagers speak of it. We found the anchorage indifferent, the landing bad, and no supplies to be obtained except wood, and, with much difficulty, "water. Our duties were greatly forwarded while about Concepcion, by the earnest and very kind assistance of the yntendente, Don Jose Alemparte ; and the active friendliness of Mr. Rouse, the British consul. Though their houses were levelled, and they themselves without any of what most Englishmen would call comfort, we were received and attended to by them and the 2e 2