Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

346 - HEIGHTS — VALLEY — SCARCITY OF FUEL. April three hundred to one thousand feet below that of the adjacent higher, but still horizontal ranges — whose broken-down ends, or sides, form the boundaries of the valley through which the river flows. Those of the higher ranges look like hills when one is in the valley, and it is not until after ascending to their summits that their real nature is seen ; when, instead of being inclined to consider those heights as hills, one be- comes disposed to think the valley of the river a vast exca- vation, cut down below the level of the neighbouring country. But on the height, or in the valley, all is an unprofitable waste. Scarcely, indeed, could we find bushes enough, even near the river, to make our nightly fires, after the third day''s journey. The wiry, half-withered grass upon which the guanacoes feed is so scanty, that they are obliged to wander over much ground in search of their food. Those few stunted bushy trees which are found here and there, near the river* are a kind of thorn trees, the wood of which is extremely hard and durable.* The night of the 22d we passed by the side of a little cove, which sheltered the boats from the strength of the stream : and, as all hands were tired, we rested during the morning of the following day. After noon (23d) we went on, and at dark stopped on the south shore. Scarcity of fuel and a cold night, made it neces- sary to take good care of the wood when cut. There may be honour among thieves, but there was little to be found during a cold night among our party, for the fire of those who hap- pened to be on watch was sure to blaze cheerily, at the expense of the sleepers. A little incident occurred here very unim- portant certainly to those unconcerned, yet of much conse- quence to us : we left our stock of salt behind, and a spade, which latter was much wanted for earthing up the sides of our tents, to keep out the cold wind. 24th. I noticed more than usual a curious effect of the river water being so much warmer than the air over it.f At * A guanaco was sliot this day bj' the running fire of several guns. He was soon cut up and stowed in the boats. + The temperature of the air being 30°, that of the water 4(i°.