Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

1834. CHANGE OF SCENERY COLD. 341 across, the deep channel being extremely narrow, not more than twenty yards in width. The distinct difference between the opposite banks of the river had been diminishing, until at this spot* both sides were much alike. We had left the cliffs and salt water, and had fairly entered the fresh-water river. Instead of having a wide extent of dismal-looking banks and dark-coloured muddy shores, we were at the side of a rapid stream, unvarying in width, on whose banks shrubs and grass agreeably relieved our eyes from muddy shingle covered with hosts of crabs. Our first night passed Avell, for there were plenty of bushes to supply us with fire-wood. Early next morning, some of the party went upon the nearest hills to look for guanacoes, when they saw that although the surface of the country appeared to an observer near the river to be irregular and hilly, upon ascending the heights it became apparent that the stream ran in a large valley ; that the general character of the country was similar to what I have already described, and that those which had appeared to be hills were the terminating sides of extensive plains, whose level was about three hundred feet above the river. Near the fresh water, shrubs, bushes, and grass were not scarce ; but every where on the higher ground a sterile, stony waste met the eye. Mr. Stokes-f- and I went on the heights, toobtaina view of the river ; and for a considerable distance we could trace its windings, but were sorry to see a great number of small islands, thickly covered with brushwood, which seemed likely to impede our progress if obliged to track J the boats. The southerly wind blew keenly over the high land, and the surface of the ground was frozen hard ; but the air was healthily fresh and bracing. Where, indeed, could it be purer than on these dry hills ? At first setting out we tried the oars, but very soon found them unable to contend with the * The northern bight, or cove, a few miles north-eastward of Islet Reach. + It was his office to make a map of the country we passed through. I Pull, or tow them along by a rope.