Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

1832. INHABITANTS — TRADE. 301 warded to the commandant or governor, from Buenos Ayres, desiring that we might have every facility and freedom in our operations ; but the disposition towards us was such, that those letters were not required. From the remains of former buildings, and accounts of the old men, Lieutenant Wickham thought that the Spanish settlers must have been far more industrious and ingenious than their Creole descendants, who are idle, indolent, and ignorant. The height of their ambition is to make a show at the Sunday races, where they deceive, drink, wrangle, gamble, and quarrel. These Sabbath occupations are always attended by the female part of the population, who take that opportunity of displaying their finery ; and though seated upon handkerchiefs on the sandy ground, without any defence from sun, wind, dust, or rain, every damsel displays silk stockings and a gaudy dress upon these occasions. The men do not go near them, notwith- standing their attire : they can beat a poor woman almost to death, upon occasion ; but they cannot defer a bet, or risk losing a dollar, for the sake of female society. The climate is so healthy, that illness of any kind is scarcely known ; and the inhabitants, in general, live to a good old age. There is a stirring trade carried on in small vessels, be- tween Buenos Ayres and this place. Salt, of excellent quality, hides, peltry, seal or sea-elephant oil, and skins, are the prin- cipal exports, in return for which are received manufactures, sugar, spirits, tobacco, &c. The Indians, who live at the outskirts of the town in ' tol- dos,' which are neither wind nor water-tight, load vessels with salt ; but the price of their labour is usually spent in some kind of spirituous liquor, which is made and drugged expressly for them — the publicans often saying, " that it is a sin to give an Indian good spirits." When drunk, the howling of these poor wretches is quite frightful. Some of them are almost skeletons — the result, probably, of drinking. Some leagues up the river coal is obtained, I was informed, but I did not see a specimen myself. Probably Mr. Darwin had an opportunity of examining its quality.