Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.2): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

1819 — 32. RIO DE JANEIKO. 73 to the proper point of the horizon, until, startled by hearing ' twelve o'clock,' reported by the master, we found too late, and much to our annoyance, that it would have been wiser to have looked at the compass before observing the altitude. Soon after mid-day black curling ripples stole along the hitherto glassy surface ; sail was made, the sea-breeze fresh- ened, and we steered towards the entrance of that magnificent harbour, Rio de Janeiro. Often as it has been visited and described, I cannot expect any one to require another sketch, but will merely remark that I know no port ecfual to it in situation, security, capacity, convenience, and abundant supply of every necessary, as well as in picturesque beauty. A day or two after the Owen Glen- dower anchored, a party of her midshipmen were allowed to take a boat and enjoy a day's excursion in the beautiful har- bour, or rather gulf. We landed on an island, which seemed to me like an immense hot-bed, so luxuriant and aromatic were the shrubs, and so exotical the appearance of every tree and flower. Years since elapsed have not in the least dimi- nished my recollection of the novelty and charm of that first view of tropical vegetation. To return to the Beagle. On the 3d we were near Raza Island, but detained by calms. The light-house lately erected there showed a bright revolving, or rather intermitting light. On the following day, when the sea-breeze set in, we steered for the harbour. The sun shone brightly, and there were enough passing clouds to throw frequent shadows over the wooded heights and across vallies, where, at other times, the brightest tints of varied green were conspicuous : yet I did not think the place half so beautiful as formerly. The charm of novelty being gone, and having anticipated too much, were perhaps the causes ; and it is possible that so much wood has been cleared away in late years, as to have diminished sensibly the rich and picturesque appearance which it certainly once possessed. As we shortened sail under the stern of our flag-ship, I was surprised by finding Sir Thomas Baker, the Commander-in-