Narrative of the surveying voyages of his majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle (vol.1): between the years 1826 and 1836 : describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagles's circumnavigation of the globe

Jan. 1828. maria goes on board. 115 forfeitin£>- advantages and comforts to be derived from traffic would induce them to restrain their resentment. I brought no spirits ; for which, after a short time, Maria asked, complaining that she was very ill, and had sore eyes, and for some time past had nothing but water to drink, and wood to smoke. Her illness was evidently assumed, but her eyes seemed highly inflamed ; and no wonder, for the upper part of her face was smeared over wdth an ochrous red pig- ment, even to the very edge of her eyelids : indeed, the whole tribe had ornamented themselves similarly, in compliment, I suppose, to our visit. As I prepared to return on board, Maria's importunity induced me to allow her to accompany me ; upon which she began to muster up all her empty bags, old mantles, and skins, and, attended by her husband, her brother-in-law, his wife and daughter, got into the boat. While going on board, the spray washed the painted countenances of our visitors, much to their regret. Upon reaching the ship, I ordered them to be regaled with meat and biscuit, of which they partook very sparingly, but took care to put what remained into their bags. Some spirits and water, too, which I thought would be soon dispatched, and which had been plentifully diluted to prevent their being made tipsy, they emptied into bottles to take on shore " for the evening,''"' when, as Maria said, they would be " very drunk." Among various things shown to amuse them was a musical snuff-box, which I had procured for the express purpose of exciting their astonishment ; but I was surprised to find, that a penny-whistle produced a ten-fold greater effect upon their senses. This indiflerence to mvisical sounds I should not have suspected, because they frequently sing, thovigh certainly in a monotonous manner. As soon as their repast was concluded, the party, except Maria and the girls, commenced bartering their mantles and skins, and, by the time their stock was expended, they had amassed a large quantity of biscuit, and a bundle of various I 2

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